Cooktown and Lizard Island

The strong wind was relentless at Hope Island, blowing constantly between 22 and 27 knots. At high tide the sea covered the surrounding reefs and the waves rolled over into the anchorage bouncing Pegasos around. On the second day we launched the dinghy to walk around the island. The wind was so strong that Robert secured the dinghy to the boat with a very long rope in case the dinghy engine died and we would be blown past the boat out to sea. We beached the dinghy and walked around the island. All 10 minutes of it. We did another lap. In good weather this must be a lovely island to snorkel and explore the surrounding reefs.

After 3 days of bouncing anchorage at Hope Island, we decided to move on to the security of Cooktown despite the strong wind. The forecast was strong south easterly wind continuing for at least 2 weeks and no improvement. According to Meteye it was going to get worse. The yellow area is 25 to 30 knot wind in our intended area of sailing north.

 

We waited for the tide to drop enough to see the submerged reefs and slowly motored out carefully following our previous inward GPS tracks between the reefs and Robert put up the front sail. It was no surprise that we were the only boat at sea other than a strange looking ship moving past in the shipping channel. It had no AIS signal so couldn't tell what it is.

 

It was a hectic sail. The wind remained around 25 to 28 knots and the swells were very steep and short. The boat rode up and down and the wind hammered from behind. The hem of the foresail tore loose. Occasionally a larger swell picked the boat up and pushed us almost sideways down the swell.

 

After 3 hours of horrible lurching we reached the mouth of the Endeavour River into Cooktown. Robert furled the sail and switched on the engine. We needed to turn to port to enter and took the swells side on as he manoeuvred the boat to the first set of channel markers. It was the moment the wind decided to reach 31 knots. The water was wild! He gunned the engine through the markers as the swells churned around. Just before the second set of channel markers a larger swell crashed into the side and shot water into the cockpit. We could see calmer water at the third set of markers and people strolling on the headland. Then we were through! What a relief.

 

The Endeavour River mouth has a large wide sandbank in the middle which dries at low tide. A variety of boats are moored around the sides.

We edged our way around other moored boats and found a spot to anchor near the mangroves. The anchorage here is very shallow and the bottom of the boat touched mud at 0.9 metres. The Cooktown welcoming committee was sunning himself on a nearby mudbank a few metres from the boat. Our first crocodile in the wild close up. We were very impressed.

 

The next day we went ashore to explore the small town's facilities. We found our shore necessities: fuel jetty, refuse bin, laundry, supermarket, grog shop and a tap for potable water as we can't use the water maker in this muddy water.

Cooktown has some quaint areas, some shops and restaurants closed up, and a few lovely old buildings that could do with a spruce up. The locals are the friendliest and chattiest we have encountered up the Queensland coast.

 

The most noticeable feature in Cooktown streets is the predominance of four-wheel drive vehicles. The town is the last outpost for those roughing it by driving into remote areas on camping and four-wheel driving expeditions.

Cooktown owes its origins to Captain Cook establishing a number of historical firsts in 1770 such as the first place Englishmen spent more than a few days ashore in Australia and the first sighting of kangaroos and the first contact with Aborigines. Cooktown milks the Captain Cook connection, as it should - that someone could achieve such passages around the reefs with none of today's navigational aids is absolutely astounding.

That afternoon there was a particularly low tide and we realised just how shallow we were when the tide went out and Pegasos leaned over into the mud. It might have been a good opportunity to clean the underside but the mud is sticky, soft and swallows a whole foot. Sitting duck for a watchful croc. When the tide came back we moved closer to the mangroves and Robert put put a second anchor to prevent further dragging. He thought about tying up to the mangroves as another boat has done, but watching a crocodile cruising along the edge of the mangroves is a bit off-putting.

 

Every morning we looked at the weather forecast and it seems we are stuck in Cooktown for almost two weeks. Thanks to a very slow moving high pressure ridge, quite common at this time of the year. Bullets of wind often rip over the boat causing the boat to shudder and swing and the covers to flap madly.

There's not much to do in Cooktown and a visit to the James Cook Museum is a highlight, not only for the artefacts and history of Cook, but also for the beautiful building that is now preserved for the museum. It used to be St Mary's Convent with Irish nuns setting up a school in 1888. That itself is a story of the times and the school exhibits are equally interesting.

 

We visited the botanical gardens and did an easy walk to Finch Bay from the gardens.

 

After 10 days of non-stop wind, the forecast was for one day of the wind easing up - our window of opportunity to move on. We topped up our provisions, diesel, gas and chocolate.

We set off after breakfast for Cape Flattery, about 35 nautical miles north. We made good time passing Cape Bedford and reached our anchorage in 6 hours. Just before rounding the Cape we saw the loading jetty for the silica sand strip-mining operation.

 

The swells were choppy and our trip was bouncy most of the time but the anchorage was well protected.

 

The only sign of life was a group of campers ashore racing along the beach on a quad bike and four trawlers anchored during the day. The trawlers leave at night for fishing grounds and return in the morning.

 

The south easterly wind was back up the next day so Robert planned our route to Lizard Island along the north side of reefs for swell protection. Slightly longer but infinitely better than having swells bash us on the side. We passed Linnet, Martin, Eyrie and Eagle reefs at low tide so they were clearly visible. Even so, there's not much to see on them.

 

The last short stretch was the toughest as we turned round facing Lizard Island and met the wind and swells head on. Really bouncy and a few waves splashed water into the cockpit. The wind was pumping and the engine going hard. Just off the island we saw a pod of dolphins and the boat shot over a large banded sea snake. The swell dropped as we reached Mrs Watson's Bay. As luck would have it, a rope came loose at the back and caught in the propeller, no engine power. Luckily this didn't happen as we were pushing the engine hard through the swells. Whew! Robert dived in the warm clear water to cut the rope free and we moved closer to the shore to anchor next to a reef. A reef shark swam up to the boat and waved a fin at us.

 

According to the forecast, it was strong winds for the next 10 days or so. Well, Lizard Island looks like a great place to sit out the wind. Warm clear water, sandy beaches, coral reefs and a hiking path to Cooks Lookout. People spend a fortune to visit the island and stay at its resort.

 

The island can only be reached by private boat or small airplane so it's fairly off the beaten track of most commercial ferry boats. It's a world class diving site and totally protected by Marine Parks. No fishing is allowed.

 

We changed our anchorage spot after a couple of days and we had hardly put down anchor in the new spot when four reef sharks arrived and did laps around the boat. We think they are used to getting scraps off arriving boats.

 

Underneath our boat was the usual collection of batfish and remora fish setting up residence.

 

Snorkeling the reefs in the bay was fantastic - the clearest water we have experienced in Australia and by far the biggest variety of coral fish.

 

 

When we weren't snorkeling, we had picnic lunch on the sandy beach, most of the time all to ourselves.

 

There were three other boats in the bay and we met up with the skippers of Starchaser and Second Wind for sundowners most evenings on the beach. Mel and Tony shared their wealth of local knowledge - very interesting and great stories!

We found the island's fresh water pump not far from the beach. Delighted to have a chance to rinse off after snorkeling, we took turns to pump. After the first few pumps, it spewed out a collection of green frogs at various intervals. Stretching out my bather bottom to rinse, a green frog popped out the tap, into my held out pants and out again. Robert thought this was very funny and after my squeal at having a frog down below, I saw the funny side too. One of the frogs sat around glaring at us and when we finished it climbed up the pump and slithered back inside.

 

We walked along the track that winds over the mangroves, next to the Pandanus vegetation and through the fynbos-type vegetation to Blue Lagoon - a very pretty reef enclosed bay.

On the way back we went up Chinamans Ridge for better internet reception to check the weather forecast. It seems we will be spending a week here before moving on - what a fabulous break in paradise.